Earring Upgrade for Sensitive Ears

June 24, 2021

If you have metal allergies, chances are your jewelry box has one or more pairs of abandoned earrings due to the ear wires causing an allergic reaction. Fortunately, this is easily remedied simply by changing out the ear wires–a task you can do yourself. Read on to learn about the supplies you will want, the tools you will need, and the instructions to turn those old abandoned earrings into your new favorites.

Ear Wires

There are many shapes of ear wires, but the French Hook is the most popular and is available in the best selection of material types. Most French hooks are made from 22-to-20-gauge wire that is formed into a variety of hook shapes. French hook ear wires are predictably easy to work with, even for non-jewelry makers.

Here is a list of my favorite metals for sensitive ears:

Niobium is an inert element that most people with metal allergies can safely wear. By definition, niobium does not contain lead, nickel, cadmium, or anything else: It’s just niobium. It’s highly resistant to corrosion and other reactions and is used in some medical implants. Niobium jewelry findings come in several anodized colors that do not wear off. Raw niobium is grayer than silver and a good match with pewter. Yellow niobium ear wires work as a substitute for gold, though it is not a perfect color match. And the anodized bronze, brass, and black niobium coordinate well with antiqued brass and copper components.
Titanium earring hooks are hypoallergenic and naturally nickel-free, which means that most people with metal allergies or sensitive skin can wear them without irritation. Titanium is also a strong metal that’s resistant to corrosion and frequently used in medical implants. Titanium is a gray metal and a good match for pewter or dull silver components.
Sterling Silver is a nickel-free hypoallergenic metal, meaning it will not irritate most people with metal allergies or sensitive skin. Sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. Rings & Things’ sterling silver earring hooks are not only nickel-free but also cadmium-free and lead-free. Sterling silver matches bright, shiny silver components.
Gold Fill, also known as gold-overlay, is made by using heat and pressure to apply a thick layer of karat gold to a base of less costly metal (usually brass). This process produces a surface of karat gold that is many times thicker than plating. Most people with metal allergies can wear gold-filled jewelry without a reaction. Gold fill is an appropriate match for gold, brass, or bronze components.
430 Stainless Steel is a lead-free alloy that meets the EU Nickel Directive guidelines for use in jewelry. Only select 430 stainless steel for your jewelry components; 304, 316, and 316L surgical stainless steel contain 8-10.5% nickel, making them unsuitable for people with nickel allergies. 430 stainless steel is a gray metal and will best match pewter or antiqued silver components.

Jewelry-Making Tools

You will also need a few jewelry-making tools to open and close loops when removing old ear wires and adding new hypoallergenic ones. A basic jewelry-making tool kit doesn’t have to be a big expense; here are my recommendations for affordable kits that will get you started:

The Beadsmith Economy Plier Set, Three Piece

The BeadSmith® economy three-piece toolset includes the most basic jewelry-making tools: chain nose pliers, round nose pliers, and side cutters, all are approximately 4.5 inches in size. This tool set is an inexpensive no-frills set for beginning jewelry makers.

The BeadSmith® Beading Tool Set, Zebra Stripe

The BeadSmith® zebra stripe tool set with zipper case includes six full-size jewelry-making tools. There are side cutters, round-nose pliers, chain-nose pliers, flat-nose pliers, bead reamer (with three tips, stored in the handle), and knotting tweezers. Pliers feature slip-resistant matte zebra-stripe grips, polished steel heads, and box-joint construction with double-leaf springs for comfort.

EURO TOOL Glitter, Five-Piece Set

The EURO TOOL® GlitterLine™ basic jewelry tool set includes five tools. The set has chain-nose pliers, flat-nose pliers, bent chain-nose pliers, round-nose pliers, and semi-flush side cutters–and they are all stored in a handy roll-up pouch. The comfortable 4.5-inch pliers have glittery PVC grips, precision ground tips, and box-joint construction with double-leaf springs for comfort. This kit is a “Staff Choice” and a “Best Seller”.

Instructions

Follow these steps to change out your old irritating earring hooks for new hypoallergenic ones!

These vintage Rings & Things earrings are ready for an upgrade, but just the earring hooks. There is no need to change the rest of the earrings–their 1970’s style is pretty groovy as is. Switching the old yellow-plated, 304 stainless-steel kidney wires for a hypoallergenic ear wire is the only update they need.

You will need flat-nose pliers and chain-nose pliers for grasping the ear wires while you work. Unless noted otherwise, jewelry pliers are non-serrated, so they are less likely to mar the metal surface of jewelry components.

Selecting the perfect hypoallergenic ear wire for your project is subjective. I chose to change from a Kidney Ear Wire to a French Hook because it is my personal preference. I also wanted an ear wire that was close in color to the gold-tone of the filigree. For a different look, I could have chosen anodized Pink Niobium or Purple Niobium French hooks for a whole different look.

Here are the ear wires pictured; they are listed from upper row left to right, then lower row left to right:

Originally made with nickel-containing kidney ear wires, this vintage pair of earrings are ready for an upgrade. To remove the ear wire, thread the ear wire off the top loop of the earring adornment. Alternately, if the earring you are updating has a French hook ear wire, twist to open the ear wire’s loop before removing it.

Use jewelry-making pliers to grasp the earring loop from opposite sides, then twist the loop to widen the open gap.

Opening and closing an earring loop is very similar to opening and closing a jump ring. Gently grasp opposite sides of the earring loop with flat-nose and chain-nose pliers and then twist the loop to widen the gap.

Hook the semi-open earring loop onto the top loop of the earring adornment. If the earring adornment has a pretty frontside, pay attention to the direction of the attached hook. Once the earring hook is connected, use the jewelry-making pliers to twist the loop closed.