Hello bloglandia! Awhile back I posted a mini tutorial on using Simply Swank soldering supplies, and today thought I’d show you some of the new Swank stuff we’ve made.
For this pendant, Mollie soldered two round glass tiles together. The finished piece is nice and thick, which adds a bit of a vintage feel to it.
One of these things is not like the others…
Hello, bloglandia! Today, I failed repeatedly at the project I undertook with the Crafted Findings semi-tubular riveting tool. But, as many wise people have stated, wisdom rarely comes from success. It is our failures that we learn the most from. And besides, these particular failures were actually wins in a way.
Fun fonts add more personality to stamped jewelry – even to stamped dog jewelry!
When stamped metal jewelry first became popular, most artists were limited to the basic block letters that were available in the market. But, wow, how things have changed! There are now many fonts available – fancy script fonts, playful lowercase fonts, swirly decorative fonts. How is a jewelry-maker to choose?
Well, one consideration is price. Our new font sets cost less than HALF the price of similar font sets on the market! Made by EuroTool, our quality stamp sets are available in five new fonts.
The letter ‘K’ on a brass heart with a crystal drop on antiqued ball chain. Simple and sweet!
Monogram – 6mm high ornate script capital letters. Perfect for initialing and monogramming charms and tags.
The next four fonts are available in both uppercase and lowercase, so you can stamp with proper capitalization even!
I used uppercase Verona on this pendant.
Verona – a curly serif font with bubbly personality.
I like how the letters aren’t quite the same size in the Siena font – makes it look much more natural.
Siena – an easy to read sans-serif font that looks like very neat handwriting.
All uppercase Highland letters on this dog tag.
Highlands – clean handwriting with a italic slant. Sans serif.
Uppercase Aras font.
Aras – a whimsical, playful font. It reminds me of the ever-popular Comic Sans font, but with serifs.
Metal stamps make impressions in sheet metal. When you hammer, the stamp displaces metal. The thicker the metal, the less you will notice the movement of metal: all you’ll see is the indent left by your stamp. On thin pieces, you’ll likely see a shadow of the stamping on the backside, and the edges might get kind of wonky. Sterling silver, brass, copper and even aluminum can be personalized with metal stamps. 24 gauge or thicker is best, but 26 gauge works too, as long as you don’t get too close to the edges.
Want to get started with metal stamping, but don’t know where to start? Check out both our metal stamping tool kit and our metal stamping blanks assortment. The kit includes basic uppercase block letters. For maximum enjoyment, add a set of the above font stamps and/or a few design stamps! For step-by-step instructions on how to make a stamped charm from sheet metal, check out our free Metal Stamping 101 page or our free technique sheet here.
I messed up almost immediately on my test piece, but it makes me think the letter ‘D’ could make a great decorative border!
One last tip: be sure to keep your stamps organized. These artistic fonts are especially easy to mess up (is that an ‘a’ or an upside down ‘g’ ??). Since the stamps will arrive alphabetized, take a moment to write the letter for each one on the side that faces you while you stamp. A fine-tipped Sharpie works great! ~ Cindy
Editor’s note: That was 2011, and I’m updating this in 2018 to fix old links … we have even MORE fonts and 100’s of design stamps now! See our full line of metal stamps (letters, number, punctuation and design stamps), stamping blanks, and metal stamping tools & accessories. ~ Polly
Hello, bloglandia! Today I finally decided to finish the ends of a flat braid I made with a square Kumihimo disk. I recently blogged how to finish the ends of round Kumihimo braids (versions of which can be made with either the square or the round disk). What stalled me on finishing my flat braid was lack of a needle.
It just takes a few quick stitches to secure the braid before you cut off the knot and add a cord end. Make sure to use thread that matches your project so you don’t notice the stitches.
Since the flat braid is well, flat, you need stitch through the braid to keep it from unraveling. Sadly, needles and I don’t get along too well. It is never the poor needle’s fault. It is my fault for not choosing the right needle. When you treat all needles the same, instead of appreciating their unique qualities and character quirks, you can quickly run into frustration.
So today when Amy loaned me a needle, warning me it was a size 15, I said, “oh, that’s fine!” even though I had no idea what she meant. After several frustrating minutes trying to thread the darn thing, I learned. Size 15 is tiny. Check out this great bead needle and thread size chart from New Native Nation. You gotta love Spudmama!
While I’d long suspected that beading needles must be different than regular sewing needles, now I know why. As Spudmama explains, beading needles don’t “bulge” around the eye – this is what allows them to pass through seed beads multiple times for bead stitching and bead weaving projects. The smaller the number, the bigger the needle. (ex. size 10 needles are larger than size 15). Plus, “sharps” are stiffer than standard beading needles. Therefore, the smaller the project, the tinier and flex-ier the needle should be.
So, if you need a needle for something other than seed beading (like finishing a flat braid or making a wrapped leather bracelet) I recommend using size 12 sharp beading needles since they are (relatively) large and sturdy.
I used “choker clamps” designed for flat ribbon, such as velvet and organza, to finish the ends of my braid. There are teeth inside the clamp, so once you flatten the clamp firmly with pliers, it won’t slide off.
If you are brave enough to make tiny seed bead jewelry, refer to Spudmama’s chart and stock up on aspirin and magnifying glasses! Oh, and needle threaders! ~ Cindy
Stackable enameled copper flowers from C-Koop Beads.
Fun, colorful enameled jewelry components are popping everywhere! I attribute the trend to talented artists whose business smarts have led them to develop enticing product lines of individual beads, gears and charms for designers to turn into finished jewelry. Just one or two enameled elements easily take a piece from ‘pretty’ to ‘pretty amazing.’
One such enamel artist is C-Koop Beads, aka Sara Lukkonen. Sara began making and selling enameled beads back in the 70’s. When she picked up the torch again in the 90’s (in her chicken coop of a studio!) her business expanded by leaps and bounds. Here are just a few of the components she creates:
So many colors of adorable little rings.
Three sizes of flat and domed disks.
Clasps, connectors, pendants and big-hole beads too!
If you are interested in doing your own enamel work, check out this how-to video from Enamel and Tiffany. It shows the entire torch-enameling process, plus does a great job of making it clear what types of tools and work space you will need. While the video focuses on beads, the process is similar for making other components. Check out our new selection of 18-gauge copper shapes – they are perfect for both torch enameling and etching!
While I know I would love enameling, I don’t have time or space for yet another addiction right now, so I opted to layer a couple of C-Koop flowers on a bracelet instead – yay for instant gratification! ~ Cindy
Black leather bolo cord made this triple-wrap bracelet super quick and easy to make! A 6mm SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS rondelle fit perfectly inside the purple enamel bead cap for a tiny bit of sparkle.
Josh is busy organizing all of the discounted strands – our entire truck bay is full of them!
39 years…that’s how long Rings & Things has been in business! Tomorrow our Spokane showroom will be closed in order to finish preparations for this weekend’s big anniversary celebration. Here’s a sneak peek at a few of the lovelies that will be available starting Friday – doors open at 10 am!
Fancy faceted tourmaline in shades of watermelon.
A great selection of turquoise!
Super sunny citrine.
Mini gemstone donuts – the perfect size for earrings and bracelets!
A basket full of bundled cloth bangles.
Event hours are from 10-4 both Friday and Saturday, and there are a variety of demos going on throughout our warehouse. The anniversary event is the perfect time to get your questions about metal stamping, metal clay, soldering and other jewelry-making techniques answered!
If you need to stock up on findings, chain and other essential regular stock items, save time by placing a showroom will-call order now, so it will be ready for you to pick up at the sale.
Hope to see you there!
So simple, yet so fun! 6″ long, 1/4 and 1/2″ wide strips to make all kinds of jewelry with.
In July, we sent ten of our blog partners sample packs of our new 24-gauge metal bracelet strips. With summer in full swing, it isn’t surprising that not everyone completed projects (at least not yet) … but the WOW, those who did really brought their A-game!
Textured, layered and beaded cuff bracelets by Helena.
Helena Fritz hammered, riveted and even bead-weaved her way to an armful of gorgeous bangle bracelets – her lovely blog has more photos. Helena specializes in beadwork, which makes her first attempt at metalwork even more impressive.
Carole shows her polymer prowess.
Carole Carlson stepped out of her comfort zone and into the world of polymer clay with these fun bracelets. She found that the copper was easier to work with than the brass, which makes sense since it is a softer metal. Check out her blog for more info.
Just one of the bright and bold bracelets Carolyn created.
Carolyn Fiene also used polymer clay, but she preferred the brass as a base. Even though it is harder to form, she felt is held its shape better. Link to her blog showing other designs that combine chain and bezel cups with polymer coming soon.
Layers of “ruffled” metal dress up Jan’s brass cuff.
Jan O’Banion made several great designs by layering different elements onto the bracelets. She used recycled tins to make flowers on the “Trashy Tinsel” bracelet above. Visit her blog to get a peek inside her creative world.
1/2″ wide copper forms the base of this lampwork glass ring by Lubica.
Lubica Vinicenko used the strips as the base of some truly elaborate rings. You can see more pictures at her blog.
As you can see, these metal “bracelet” strips are extremely versatile and fun to experiment with. Am I the only one surprised to see polymer clay and seed beads combined with sheet metal?
The back of my layered stamped bracelet. I curved short strips with my wood dapping set to make the matching earrings.
I’ve been having a blast stamping and texturing them. You can see the front of – and how I made – the “Earth Laughs in Flowers” bracelet in our design gallery. Texturing metal with
brass texture sheets is great stress relief, I must say!
Although July is already behind us, we’re always happy to see and share what you create. Be sure to send us some photos of what you make with these metal strips! ~ Cindy
PS – Molly Alexander posted her etching and mixed metal results to a photostream on Flickr – be sure to check them out!
So, if you’ve been reading this blog you know we are very excited about SuperClear Resin for jewelry. As is usually the case, we had a bit leftover after filling some bezels, so we tried applying some to scrapbooking paper just to see what would happen. The results were great! With most epoxy resins, it is recommended that you coat your paper or images with Mod Podge, white glue or other sealer to prevent the resin from bleeding into the paper. However, we found that SuperClear resin worked just fine on uncoated paper. (We still recommend testing yours first! Each type of paper acts a little differently.)
SuperClear resin, when applied sparingly, has enough surface tension to stay domed on the paper.
In the picture above, Mollie is using a wooden craft stick to stir and dab the resin. It works ok. However, it is possible for the moisture content of the wood to have an adverse affect on the resin. We’ve now switched to these
plastic paddles/spatulas, as recommended by Resin Obsession.
The dots were super shiny when they dried – and the colors didn’t bleed!
How do you turn resin-covered paper dots into wearable jewelry? Fortunately Mollie is a clever girl. Here are a couple of the options she came up with:
The dot fit perfectly on a round pendant finding with bail.
I especially like that the back of the piece is entirely covered with metal – it feels much more finished that way.
Since these gluable pendant findings already have bails attached, you can just slide them onto chains or ribbons and have complete necklaces for under $2 each!
The resin dots also fit perfectly inside glass bezels.
Glass bezels are another unique option. If you plan ahead, you can make the pendant reversible! Since the bezels don’t have holes, Mollie wrapped hers with flat cotton cord and glued it in place.
Have you come up with interesting ways to combine resin with paper? We’d love to hear about it! ~Cindy
The magic braided cuff bracelet.
Hi bloglandia! I came across this great Magic Braided Leather tutorial today and immediately had to try it with our pre-made leather cuff bracelets. In less than 5 minutes I had a finished braided bracelet! Here’s how you can make your own:
Plain bracelet: the “before” shot.
Supplies:
How to:
Ta da! The “magic” braid.
As it gets worn, the leather braid will flatten out and get smoother, but I’m pretty happy with it as it is! ~ Cindy
Links updated 8/2017
SuperClear Resin, molded with shiny Alumilite powder and seed bead mixes. I think I’ll turn these into bobby pins.
I have a love/hate relationship with epoxy resin. I love it when it works, and hate, hate, HATE it when it doesn’t. Through trial and more errors than I like to remember, I get good results almost always with EasyCast Resin. However, it isn’t exactly easy – the epoxy must be the right temperature. Air bubbles form and must be dealt with…then a few hours later more air bubbles might form. I’ve heard tragic stories of resin staying tacky forever rather than hardening like it should. All in all, working with resin is kind of stressful – especially if you’ve gone through a lot of expense or effort to craft special resin bezels.
Super clear bottle cap pendant on a hand-knotted hemp cord – with no bubbles!
That’s why our design team is truly super excited about new SuperClear Resin by Resin Obsession. Cindy at Resin Obsession is just that – obsessed with resin. She specifically formulated SuperClear Resin to be easy to use for jewelry making:
SuperClear Resin forms very few bubbles.
*To dissipate bubbles in any jewelry resin, either blow through a straw (gently!) or wave a match (not too close or the resin might discolor) over the surface. The carbon dioxide is what pops the bubbles.
SuperClear Resin cures quickly: 6-8 hours at room temp or in just one hour at 150 degrees F!
*EasyCast takes 24 hours to fully cure. I always check mine a couple of hours after I’ve poured to make sure air bubbles haven’t multiplied behind my back. With SuperClear, there were hardly any bubbles from the beginning, and no new ones formed later.
SuperClear Resin mixes in a 2:1 ratio. Just fold the 2 components together for 2 minutes, let it “rest” for 5 minutes and then pour.
SuperClear Resin is super clear.
*I love accurate advertising.
SuperClear Resin is a good value.
*It is slightly more expensive than EasyCast, but less expensive than other clear jewelry resins. When you consider the time you’ll save, SuperClear Resin’s price looks even better.
SuperClear resin can be tinted with dyes too!
And finally, the best news of all for our international customers… SuperClear Resin can be shipped internationally! *Yay!!!!
One last thing: SuperClear Resin is compatible with all of our opaque and translucent resin dyes, metallic Alumilite powders, resin molds and related resin products.
~Cindy